Tori approves of the new roost.

(no, she's a chicken, not an eagle)

We gonna have ourselves a coop-raisin’!

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Weekday Meals: Spring Pizza

A very kind neighbor brought over about a half-pound of morel mushrooms for us this week, which left us both extraordinarily grateful and pondering what the best way to enjoy them might be.

I’m a big fan of the morel in eggs, so I was surprised and intrigued when Dave said he was making pizza.

from L-R: dough, goat cheese, morels, mustard greens, dandelion greens, ramps, and bacon

We used Alton Brown’s pizza crust recipe, pureed the dandilion and mustard greens (a couple of cups worth of greens) with olive oil (a couple of tablespoons), salt and pepper that, and voila – sauce.

Dave sauteed the morels:

oh baby. mushrooms.

crisped up bacon, roasted whole ramps, scattered some thinly sliced ramps and some whole greens, added clumps of goat cheese, then layered it on all on the pizza stone.

Baked for 10  minutes, the result was phenomenal:

Now you understand why I married this man.

We’ll be making this again next ramp season. Five stars.

Minneapolis, Food City.

It’s always busy during May for us. So I’m probably more excited than usual to get to the Mill City Farmer’s Market for the first time this season.

Mill City has been “our market” since we met five years ago. It’s not the biggest, and it’s not the closest to our house, but it’s a fantastic bike ride over the Stone Arch Bridge. The Chef Shack is there. And there’s a ton of really high-quality food to bring home, to boot.

And it offers a list of food that makes my mouth water… case in point, this week’s list of goodies (it’s so helpful that the market is offering a Produce Planner this year!):

  • Asparagus
  • Morels
  • Green garlic
  • Ramps
  • Rhubarb
  • Radishes
  • Arugula
  • Spring salad mix
  • Spinach
  • Nettles
  • Fiddlehead ferns
  • Herbs
  • Salad turnips
  • Dried peppers
  • Baby bok choy

Drool. That is all.

My cheatin’ heart.

For years now, Rustica has been my go-to bakery. It’s also been the gold standard I strive to meet in my own journey toward mastering the art of baking.

Until today.

As we drove to work this morning, Dining with Dara highlighted Sunstreet Breads, on 46th and Nicollet. Now, Dara knows a thing or two about good eats here in the metro, AND 46th and Nic is conveniently a quick stop on my morning commute, so I convinced the carpool to stop in.

I bought three baguettes and a blueberry cream cheese kolache. This cream cheese kolache:

Yes, I got halfway through this pastry before I thought to take a picture of it. It was THAT good.

And while the pillowy donut-meets-sweet roll texture of the kolache is really nothing like the buttery, flaky, crumbly base of most Rustica pastries, I have to say that it perhaps tasted even better with my coffee. Maybe. However, the baguette! Oh, the baguette. Dara, you have never steered me wrong before, and I daresay Sunstreets’s baguette outshines Rustica. Gasp. There, it’s out there and I’m not ashamed. The crumb: amazing. The flavor: clean and elegant, yet complex, with notes of milkiness, a little salt, and the perfect bite. I want to bottle the aroma and sell it as perfume. Lawd.

So now, I have a cheating problem. I’ve been in  a relatively monogamous bakery relationship with Rustica for years… and I’m not ready to leave her. But Sunstreet, you are oh-so good at what you do, too. I’m a two-timing, bakery loving fool, and I just can’t help myself.

On writing more.

Oddly (or perhaps not), I ceased blogging at just about the moment after I started the job I resign tomorrow. That’s about to get fixed up. Never again do I allow work to prevent me from writing about the things I am most passionate about.

So, to new beginnings, writing more, chicken keeping, seedling-starting, master gardening, being our own CSA, sewing, brewing, grapevine growing, and whatever else the rest of the year has in store.

leftovers

One of the conundrums which accompanies hosting the holidays is what to do with all your leftovers.  Sometimes we have a party to rid ourselves of the extra (Leftover Thanksgiving, a hit two years running with our friends).  Sometimes we just give them away (my sister-in-law typically comes over to stock up on weekday lunches on Sunday nights.  Love getting rid of our leftovers that way!)

But sometimes — like this weekend — we just have a lot of leftover food to contend with.

This is a problem for me.  I really can’t stand eating the same thing for more than about 2 days in a row (it’s actually nauseating).  To compound the problem, Dave has an aversion for wasting food (so I can’t just throw stuff out, which is wasteful, yes, but what I would probably do).

What do you do with leftovers?

We had a bunch of ham leftover from the holidays — and roots galore in season right now, so I perused the internet for a little inspiration… and didn’t get a whole lot.  I’m wary of gratins with ham (I’ve been burned before)… but really, REALLY wanted to use up some of this damned ham.  But I don’t like clumpy cheese or watery taters… and that got me to thinking about how AWESOME my dear husband’s mac and cheese (a basic bechamel combined with cooked noodles, shredded cheese, and baked with a breadcrumb topping)… And then I got hungry.

But it also made good sense to apply to ham and taters, so I modified about 6 different recipes, the result of which is follows (and, I think will be going into regular rotation.

Green Toews Ham & Cheese Gratin Hotdish

(serves 6-8)

  • 4 cups diced russet potatoes, skin-on
  • 1 cup finely diced onion
  • 1/2 cup finely diced shallot
  • 2 cloves super-fine minced garlic
  • 5 tablespoons butter
  • 5 tablespoons flour
  • 2 1/2 cups milk
  • 3/4 teaspoon Coleman’s mustard (really, don’t bother with any other kind)
  • 1 teaspoon paprika (I used half-sharp, but you can use whatever your palate prefers)
  • 1 cup finely-grated Parmesan
  • 1 cup finely-shredded extra-sharp cheddar
  • 2 cups diced cooked ham
  • 3/4 cup bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Sautee onion, shallot and garlic in a large saucepan til just softened (you’ll want to use a little olive oil in the bottom of a hot pan to get this process started).  Add potatoes (and more oil if necessary) and cook the aromatics and potatoes together til softened and beginning to brown – about 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and set aside.

In another saucepan, melt the butter.  Once melted, add the flour and whisk to create a roux.  Continue whisking til slightly browned.   Slowly stir in milk and whisk constantly til smooth and thick; then add mustard, paprika, salt and pepper to taste (under-salt this as your ham and cheese are going to add plenty to this dish).  Remove from heat and set aside.  (This is basically a bechamel… which I’ll refer to it as going forward).

Grab your lasagna pan (this is a 9×13 pyrex casserole dish, in my house) and toss in the potato/aromatics mixture.  Add ham and stir to combine.  Add shredded cheese and give it another stir. Use a rubber spatula and pour the bechamel over the contents of the pan.  Use the rubber spatula to gently combine.  Top the casserole with bread crumbs.

Bake for 30-40 minutes at 350.  You might want to use the last 5 minutes to broil the top and brown your breadcrumb

The Green Toews kitchen manifesto

“How do you guys eat so well, all the time?”

I often find myself equal parts perplexed and flattered when a friend or family member comments on how our household runs what I consider to be the epicenter of life — our kitchen. I’ve fielded questions about why we grow our own food AND participate in a CSA — why we shop at 3 or 4 local food providers, including stops at the butcher, bakery, coffee shop, and fishmonger, pretty much weekly, in addition to the grocery store — how we manage to turn out 5 or 6 home-made meals a week — and do it all within a family of four, average-joe budget.

I realize that our obsession over food isn’t everyone’s passion. And I remember a time when cooking for one (or two) seemed like more of a hassle than what it was worth.  And other times, I stop and think: have we as a culture gone soft? Do we, as a race, know how to feed ourselves, without the packaged food aisles in the supermarket and processed meat squares that come from a fast-food window? Don’t get me wrong — we feed the kids mac and cheese; our car can and will be found at a drive-through window on a roadtrip. But that’s not our day in/day out. So how do we make our kitchen happen? We follow these simple rules. And no, it doesn’t take all my time. And no, it’s not my only hobby. But my kids did eat ratatouille from scratch last night (and watched me cook as they watched the movie) — and at ages 2 and 7, sang the praises of couscous and goat cheese. So maybe we’re on to at least a little something…?

Take or leave these tips as they serve your life; they have, and will continue, to serve our family well.

  1. Get a solid handle on the basics of good cooking and baking. Make time to learn a few crucial things like knife techniques, ratios, herbs and spices, and flavor profiles. If you have ever felt anxious walking into the kitchen because “you don’t know how to cook”… this is where you start. Get a book; take a class; ask a friend who knows this stuff to mentor you (trust me, we love to pass down the knowledge). We won’t all turn out to be epic chefs. But we all have the ingrained ability to feed ourselves well. It is how our species has survived for so long. Don’t let Betty Crocker and Hamburger Helper fool you; we ALL are smart enough to put together delicious meals, all by ourselves.
  2. Buy a few really great cookbooks you like and know you’ll use; find websites with trusted recipes and make them your go-tos. Try new things from them, and make peace with the occasional failure (there’s a restaurant open somewhere that will feed you if you burn the biscuits or ruin the roast). Donate or sell the cookbooks you don’t use; they’ll only frustrate and discourage you, but they may inspire someone else.
  3. Invest a little bit of money in quality kitchen tools that make your job a million times easier. A good knife and sharpener, a solid cutting board, high-quality food processor, and top-notch mixer can make what seems daunting pretty easy.
  4. Plan your meals weekly. Balance the menu (rotate meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes as well as flavor profiles) and plan for specific recipes. You won’t overspend at the grocery store, you are less likely to give up and go out to eat.  Incredibly important key to success: plan in one or two days per week where you do nothing — eat a bowl of cereal,  reheat leftovers, or grab take-out. Don’t kill yourself in the kitchen every day.
  5. Keep track of what you have available. We use a simple spreadsheet on Google docs that inventories our freezers, and add or delete as items are purchased or used. We throw away less freezer-burned fruits and unintelligible leftovers.
  6. Shop around and find the least expensive way you can buy local. This is a big fad right now — and a good one, in my opinion, but this is America, after all, and even the best fads allow an opportunity for someone to rip you off. Be smart. My neighborhood gas station sells the same eggs and milk I’d buy at the co-op for well less than half the cost. Same brands. So yep, I do make the trip into the gas station to save myself 5 bucks on eggs and milk every week. And you know what, everyone wins… I support my neighbors and local economy,  I pay less because I don’t have to pay someone to ship it.  Also, local food is delicious food. I think of it this way: imagine how you feel after walking to the corner store. Then, imagine how you feel after being on a 8 or 12-hour plane ride. That bag of spinach from Argentina tastes the same way you feel after that plane ride, compared to the bag of spinach from the farmer’s market, picked yesterday and driven 40 miles to get in your belly.
  7. Buy in-season. Lots of  cash (and pollution, and unnecessary plant stress, and chemical fertilizers, and so on) goes into things that are force-grown/mass produced. Besides, in-season food tastes better (when it’s allowed to do what nature programmed it to do). No one wants to eat that mealy peach from Chile in  February. Especially not at 3 or 4 bucks a pound.
  8. Avoid anything that has extra packaging. You pay a (relative) fortune for the packaging – and, when things are packaged, they often need preservatives, which is another thing you don’t need, but still pay for – and, ultimately, you just throw it all away.
  9. Learn how to grow the things you use most. You’ll save time and money if you’ve frozen a giant green bean harvest for the lean winter months, instead of buying a bag at the grocer’s every week. And again, have I mentioned how much better it tastes?
  10. Make it yourself (even if you have to freeze, can, or otherwise preserve it for later) whenever you can.

sunshine is fine.

It’s shaping up to be an idyllic week here in Northeast Minneapolis… and waking up to find this delicious lemonade recipe in my inbox (courtesy of a fabulous little hotel in New Prague MN called Schumacher’s — which, by the way, we highly recommend; excellent food, amazing accomodations, and a great bartending staff)… well, it’s just sort of the inspiration I needed to get this summer started.

Thanks, Schumachers Hotel and Grill 212!

Summertime Lemonade Recipe from Chef John

Chef John's Summertime  Lemonade RecipeThis is a refreshing summer treat. There’s lemonade, and then there’s Lemonade! Guess which one this is?

Lemon Base
2 cups sugar
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Grated peel of 2 lemons
Lemon Cubes
1 1/2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice
Lemonade
1/4 cup lemon base
3 ice cubes
1 lemon cube
8 oz. cold water

  1. For Lemon Base, combine sugar, lemon juice and lemon peel in large saucepan; heat to a boil 3 minutes. Remove from heat; cool to room temperature. Store in refrigerator in covered glass container until served.
  2. For Lemon Cubes, freeze lemon juice in ice-cube tray. When frozen, transfer to resealable plastic bag.
  3. For 1 tall glass of Lemonade, combine base, cubes and water. As cubes melt, they keep each drink full of flavor. For pink color, add a little cranberry juice to lemon juice before freezing.

10 servings.
Preparation time: 10 minutes.
Ready to serve: 1 hour, 10 minutes.

CHEF’S NOTES:
• The most important part of this Lemonade technique is to remove all white membrane from lemon peel with a potato peeler. The white membrane will make the Lemon Base bitter.